Aussie on Walkabout

the journey i almost missed…

I was hesitant, even resistant, to take the flight from fun loving Brazil to my new tour in Egypt. I missed my first flight on purpose in a bevy of penthouse party animals and if not for a friend from NYC telling me to get my shit together I doubt I’d have repaid and gotten another flight. I made it in a haze after jumping off a moutain that morning and swimming into another delightful afternoon of debauched behavior. Arriving at the airport in a mess wasn’t new. Slept like tutankhamun till I arrived and managed to join two days late, the “mystics tour”.

I was worried the energy was off. Depleted by thousands of years of rape and pillage from the Pursians to the English. Everyone has had a piece of Egypt. That plus current arab rule which hardly lends itself to a single white woman who values freedom at all costs having a great time.

I touched down in Cairo after a quick hash session and french seafood lunch in Casablanca. I was exhausted but pulsing through the traffic en route to the Le Meridian hotel. The mystics team was shocked at my late arrival and dressed in a lady gaga concert t-shirty and Stella McCarthy tight work out pants. Hardly the spiritual seeker of ancient wisdom they expected off the boat from 6 weeks of aya and journey into the deep jungles of south america. Did I mention I hate labels?

I was incapable of anything but sleeping face down in the back of the bus for the six hour journey into the heart of Khemit. I had not read anything on this place or even paid attention to the itinery. I like surprises. My first stop was Church of the Holy Virgin at Gabal al-Tayr. We had to get special permission and had an armed guard. Originally one entered the monastery from the base of the cliff up a crevice in the rock by means of a pulley and was where the holy family stayed. We meditated and chanted in the cave. I knew I came to the right place. Egypt was going to rock my world. As I looked across the fields and palm lined Nile surrounded by desert I knew it had started.

Following in Jesus’ footsteps, entering the holy of holiest temples that only Pharoes and Preistess had access to, accessing pyrimids where Nepolian had slept, this was where everything began and everyone had been. The impressive magesty of it all almost overwhelmed me. And I thought about not coming?

I had no idea…

…how intense the energy and group would be. At first it all seemed normal. But nothing was. Not even a little bit. Each and every human on the tour was mach five in one way and usually another. We came from all over the world for this. Many preparing and saving for years.

We journeyed by a fleet of buses and trucks with more armed men than there were us guests to Amarna and Tuna el Gebel. Not far from Minya this was the necropolis of the city of Hermopolis, and was a place with specialy adoration to the god Thoth. It is best known for the sprawling catacombs at the foot of the western cliffs, where thousands of ibises and baboons (dedicated to Thoth) and other sacred animals were buried from the New Kingdom multitudes of ibises and baboons, (Besides fish, pigs, dogs, cats, goats,, falcons, larks, and kestrels, all mummified and placed into pottery jars). Potsherds and torn and broken mummies are still strewn in the passages today.

The next day was Abydos and Temple of Seti I and Osireion was just remarkable. The temple is dedicated to the six major gods – Osiris, Isis, Horus, Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty and Ptah – and also to Seti I (1294–1279 BC) himself. Abydos has a special place in the sacred landscape of ancient Egypt, as it was believed to be the place where Osiris was buried. 

We were in a vibe of intense temple speed dating and hard core partying in the evening. I met a young man by the pool in Luxor and after taking his virginity (unbeknown to me at the time) I was so hungover the next day I was unable to join the tour to Temple of Hathor at Dendera. Some habits die hard. Sex over spirituality is a bad one.

The next day I was back in action visiting the West Bank Valley of the Kings, the Rameseum, Colossi of Memnon, and evening tour of Luxor Temple. Followed by dancing, cigs, and laughs on the top deck of the boat. Crusing the nile with this crew is a highlight of my life and nothing I’ll ever forget. The cruise in the Amazon paled by comparison.

Going from the Alyssa boat to a felucca, to a bus, to take us on a hot air balloon ride over the nile and valley of the kings as the sun rose was enough to make a person say “I have lived. Do with me as you will, God. I have lived”. Afterwards Karnak Temple which was the Disneyland of all temples. Karnak Temple dates from around 2055 BC to around 100 AD. Cult temple dedicated to Amun, Mut and Khonsu. The largest religious building ever constructed. So much happened. I had a very emotional experience with Sekhmet that had me crying like a baby. One of the guards took me behind a wall and touched my cervix. All before I knew what happened. Till this day I can’t tell if he was healing me or being a pervert. From what I’ve learned about the men there the latter is most likely. I walked around a scarab for good luck and left with a sense of bewildered awe.

Then more crusing along the nile watching ancient lands and mystical secrets float by as we drank beers in the pool. Knowing we had come to the right place at the right time. Captivated and activated by all that was occuring to us and with us.

getting into the flow…

As I still refused to look at the agenda or inform myself in any way the absolute delight I felt as the boat sailed into Esna and docked right beside Kom Ombo. The temple’s double dedication is reflected in its layout: It’s perfectly symmetrical along the main axis and has twin entrances, two connected hypostyle halls with the reliefs of two gods on either side of a column, twin chambers, and twin sanctuaries. The eastern half of the temple was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek (god of the Nile and creator of the world), his wife Hathor, and their son Khonsu. The western half of the temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horus (god of the sky and protector of the king), his wife Tasenetnofret, and their son Panebtawy. The earliest signs of advanced medicine on the walls had me thinking how far we’ve fallen. They had it all- perfect alignment with the engergies, harnessed to perfection. The thin lines between the immortals and us humans. A land of advanced abundance. The signs were all here.

Kom Ombo will always be in my heart for my love of Sobek. My croc god.

Back on the boat it was about to be a long and very wet night. We transformed ourselves into Egyptian Queens and Kings and danced all night for the Galabeya party. Then decided to stay up till sunrise for the Autumn equinox. The 5am bus to Abu Simbel was brutal. I was so out of it I forgot to put a bra and panties on. My dear Ashley covering me up and playing buddy for the day as I drifted around the magnificent structures in a haze. By the time we went to the Aswan Quarry and Temple of Isis I was considering giving up my wicked ways. But we only had a few days left of this magical journey through the black lands and I was committed.

I almost missed the last boat on the journey to Aswan headed to Elephantine Island. Would have been a shame to miss walking on the broken pottery, sharing in the dreams and secrets of my ancient sisters. Feeling those dreams and hopes. Hoping they were fulfilled. The last of the afternoon spent buying Nubian swords, swimming in the nile, witnessing the men play and elders play. Just the way they have since the beginning. We smoked up in the boat on the way back. Feeling that feeling that comes when the Sesh is in Sesh. A hazy flight to Cairo. The best was saved for last.

Bent & Red Pyramids at Dashur, Sound hospital, Step Pyramid & Serapeum at Saqqara… Mind blown.

Private Visit Between the Paws of the Sphinx and inside the Great Pyramid… Soul ignited.

The sesh returns to their families and places called homes, I stay not ready to break the spell. I was always the last one standing and this was to be no different. Part duex!!! Encore!! Once more for the cheap seats at the back (NYC broadway). ONWARDS!!!